Dios mio, why hasn’t the rest of the world caught on to open air taxis? It’s only the most freeing, unfettered way to travel – day or night. And the local pulmonia drivers are, bar none, some of the nicest people I’ve met. Want to know the best place for tacos al pastor in Mazatlán? They’ll tell you. Jonesing to know how to say something in Spanish? They’re your enthusiastic teacher. Feel like learning about the real people who inhabit this town? Their stories will floor you. If I have one piece of advice, it’s this: take the pulmonias everywhere you go. They are the lifeblood of Mazatlán.